The MOST REALISTIC Leash Training Lesson for SEVERE PULLERS. Reality Dog Training

STOP PULLING on leash! Reality Dog Training (This video contains paid promotions) Get 50% OFF your first PupBox when you sign up for a multi-month subscription and use discount code ZAK at 💜

Pupford has some AMAZING BLACK FRIDAY/CYBER MONDAY DEALS going on right now!!! 🔥

Did you know I have a TOTALLY 100% FREE DIGITAL DOG TRAINING COURSE?? 🥳 Sign up now and get free access to the entire course FOREVER:

For more daily dog training tips and videos FOLLOW US! @zakgeorge on Instagram:

I’m on TikTok too!

Like me on Facebook!

Support my videos by making a contribution on patreon:

Order my NEW book here (if your dog is like Chop, get this one!!!)

And check out my other book (broad overview of choosing, raising and training a dog) here:

Does your dog PULL on leash?? You’re not alone! 🙌

0:00 When Plan A doesn’t work…
5:12 Step 1 of leash training… and a quick Inertia update 🙂
6:27 Neighborhood leash walking. Watch his progression… What do you think??

31 Comments on “The MOST REALISTIC Leash Training Lesson for SEVERE PULLERS. Reality Dog Training”

  1. If I understand correctly, him pulling means he finds other things more rewarding than what you have. So why not at least make him work to get access to the environmental rewards? Like sitting, looking back at you, etc. before he’s allowed to check out new things.

    Edit: in retrospect, ZG is already doing some version of what I was suggesting

    1. @s if you just slap a prong collar on a dog and it instantly stops pulling then the tool is doing the work and it’s not learning how to not pull. If you are going to use a prong collar then you first have to teach it leash pressure.then teach it how to walk on a loose leash

  2. Zak you made tons of progress with Chop during that walk! Thanks for demonstrating your technique. I think Inertia also showed some awesome dog mentoring skills during their playtime 🐶🐾🐶❤️🐼

  3. He’s doing really well! My dog has 3 types of sled dog in him (husky/malamute/canadian inuit dog). I’ve managed to get him to walk good most times, but if we’re somewhere exciting, nothing can keep him from pulling! It’s in his blood, I just let it happen 😂 Honestly it’s amazing he’s as well behaved as he is cuz he’s very difficult… letting him loose to run in a enclosed area and urban mushing is the key to keeping him chill

  4. Such a difference to see your patient, incredibly positive training be so successful, when other trainers think jerking the leash is the only way to go. Clearly positive training is going to be the most effective, and I wonder at possible side behaviors with the other behavior.

  5. I can’t believe that chop have come this far and you doing awesome with your training my German Shepard dog Is 1 years old and she does pretty good but when l look at inersa lm like we have a long way to go thank you for the videos that’s what helps my dog

  6. Awesome video! Love the leash walking part especially. Some important pointers/reminders for those who are working on leash walking or have a fully leash trained dog:

    1) Let the dog walk in front of you! It’s a complete alpha/dominance myth that dogs need to walk at your side for walks, it’s also to serve human convenience at the dog’s expense. Maintaining human walking pace is hard for dogs for long periods of time: dogs naturally walk much faster due to their different structure. It’s also insanely boring and frustrating as dogs cannot engage and explore their environment at your side properly, and don’t get to exercise very much. Dogs need to have freedom of movement, and lots of ability to explore and sniff for their mental health and wellbeing. They have to ignore so many interesting scents and sights to stay at your side. Heeling for short periods of time for training or for getting through tricky situations like crossing a busy street is totally ok and normal, but dogs should not be at your side or heeling for more than a maximum of a few minutes at a time. Most of the walk should be with the dog in front of you, out to the side, or at your side if they prefer.

    2) Pulling is natural, leash walking is not: Some pulling, even in a fully trained dog is normal and OK! Dogs are not robots and machines, and some light occasional pulling or a sudden jerk everyone now and then is normal, and definitely not a reason to punish. (You should not punish your dog for any reason, scientific research by the AVSAB and others supports not using punishment or aversive tools, and only using force-free methods in all cases). Also, pulling (even a lot) is very normal in general. Dogs are not born knowing not to pull, walking on a leash and at your side is very unnatural and difficult to learn for dogs. We have to acknowledge that and be especially kind and understanding.

    3) Use a harness! Even light pressure on the sensitive neck has been shown to cause damage but also pain and discomfort. Collars can be uncomfortable due to their pressure on the throat, and possible restriction of breathing. This discomfort and pain can cause dogs to be stressed, have higher energy, and be distracted. Harnesses are much safer and usually more comfortable. Especially while training where a lot of pulling is expected, harnesses are crucial to protect your dog’s throat and sensitive organs in the neck from damage. The harness is only a safety management device. It is not the tool that teaches the dog to walk nicely, but the training.

    4) Meet the exercise and mental stimulation needs before training many skills, especially leash walking. Walking on a short line like that one Chop is attached to during LLW sessions doesn’t allow for much exercise or sniffing/engaging with the environment, so it’s important to exercise your dog either off-leash or on a long line and let them sniff and engage with their environment for a while before asking for loose leash walking. This way, they are more receptive due to their needs being met, and you don’t have to worry about not meeting their needs during your training. For example you can pause and wait for the dog to loosen the pressure and make eye contact, and not have to worry about them not getting their exercise. Make sure you reward a lot though!

  7. Also, Chop’s playing has improved dramatically. Starting at 5:12 to 6:04. He is so much more receptive to Inertia’s comfort zone, and is exhibiting a lot of great play behaviors (calming signals, taking breaks, not being too rough, adjusting to her play style, play signals like loose body language and flopping down on the ground 5:54, and taking turns in different play positions like chasing and being chased). He does seem to be a bit anxious, or not as into play in this play session, disengaging a lot, showing a bit of anxious signals (scratching, sniffing, shaking off, a bit hesitant in some body language) but still seemed to have fun and make a lot of improvement.

  8. I love the use of the word “guardian” here 15:54, instead of “owner”. Dogs have been scientifically linked to being very similar in terms of intelligence, emotional capacity, needs, and wants to 2-3-year-old human children. Human children are not “owned”. They are guided, taught, and raised. They have guardians, parents, and/or caretakers. Just like dogs. Raising a child and raising a dog are very similar in many ways: they both need kind and clear guidance and lots of patience, support, and positive reinforcement.

  9. I love how the ball dropped so anti-climatically, lol. With both of my dogs, it’s been so easy to train lie down. With this series I’m starting to appreciate how much patience is needed sometimes with dog training. CANNOT WAIT TO SEE WHAT HIS DNA RESULTS ARE!

Leave a Reply